Hours
Logged: 7

Today was a day with lots of hours and not a lot of pictures. I finished the work on the left air intake, which included dimpling the boot cowl and cutting countersinks into the plastic vent. I also dimpled all of the holes in the boot cowl skins that will get rivets, except for the firewall flange. I wanted to wait to commit to fasteners on the firewall flange until cowl time. I added some missing nutplates to the glareshield hatch (the corners that needed single lug nutplates) and started adding the nutplates to the lower boot cowl panels.

Install Nutplates

Here's a nice row of nutplates (in the wrong place)


Above you can see that I put the nutplates on wrong. I have made this panel 3 times now, so hopefully it is correct (speaking from the future again).

I also cut off some long strips of aluminum to use for the wingtips, and started preparing the stainless tunnel piece for it’s nutplates. It is so thin that dimpling is the only option for the nutplate rivets.



Hours
Logged: 4

I’ve been watching the price of the engine mount rubbers for the past few months, and the trend seems alarming. In the 2008 Vans Accessory catalog, they were $40 per lug (for a total of $160). Today Vans sells them for $125 per lug, or $500 plus shipping! Yikes! I was surprised to see the cost go up so quickly. I was looking for some way to spend less, and eventually found that Jeppesen of all places sold them. Their price was well below anything else that I could find, at $88 per lug. My only explanation for this was that their price was outdated, but who knows. I was glad to save so much money. Here’s the data from the box:

Lord J-7402-24

Lord J-7402-24 Engine Mounts


Nobody seems to know how long the bolts need to be for attaching the mounts to the engine. I don’t really understand the mystery- the mounts have a center tube that gets compressed to the washers on either side. Now that I have them on hand I can measure the length of that tube and the end washers to come up with a grip length for the bolts. Here are some pictures of my measurements, in case you find yourself wondering how long the bolts should be.
Measuring

This was just the uncompressed length, not very useful.

Washer Thickness

Here's the thickness of the end washer. It's just a little bit more than .1 inch


Measuring Again

Here's another somewhat useless measurement- the uncompressed gap between the two big pieces.


Here's the uncompressed length of the pair


Rubber Engine Mount Thickness

Here's a much more useful measurement- the thickness of the assembly once it is compressed.


Thickness of Engine Ear

This is the measurement that I took of the thickness of the engine mounting ear on the engine. This one isn't especially accurate, but is pretty close.


For the purpose of ordering bolts, my measurements aren’t especially accurate, since the bolts generally come in 1/16″ increments. I figured that the compressed rubber was 2.03″ and the engine lug was .93″. This makes the required grip length for the -7 bolts 2.96, not counting for any washers (and I’ll need at least one of those at 1/16″). The AN7-34 is 2 15/16″ (2.9375″), so I ordered the 7-35 with it’s 3 1/16″ grip length. That will allow for a washer or two but will keep the bolt’s threads out of the way.

With that bit of research done, I started working on the air intakes that will go on the sides of the boot cowl. These will provide fresh air for the front seats through an eyeball wemac type of vent on the instrument panel. I got the scoops from Vans, their part SV-1 at $6.25 each.

Vans NACA Scoop

Here's one of the scoops from Vans, along with a cardboard template that I made for marking the aluminum skin.


I wanted to make an aluminum backup ring so that the plastic part would be sandwiched between two layers of aluminum. The cardboard template made that step easy.
Aluminum Backup Ring

Here are the two rings and a nice view of the back of the SV-1


I drew a few lines on the boot cowl to try and figure out where I wanted to put the vent. My primary goals were to make the centerline of the intake horizontal in level flight, and to keep the intake lower than the outlet inside, so that water would be more likely to drain out if we were flying in the rain. I’m curious to see if this works.
Boot Cowl Layout

Here's the mark on the boot cowl sheet for where the vent will go. I almost oriented the vent backwards! This is the right side of the airplane, with the nose facing right.


Boot Cowl Vent Intake Location

Here's a more wide-angle view of where the vent will go.


vent on flat skin

Here's the boot cowl skin flattened out and ready for cutting the hole.


Ready to dimple

Now I just need to dimple the skin, countersink the plastic, and put everything aside until I'm ready to permanently attach the intake.


I got to the point of dimpling the holes for the first side and had to quit for the day.



Hours
Logged: 4.25

I started out today by finishing something from last week.

Top Stringer Forward Attach

This is the forward attachment for the top stringer, looking up and slightly forward.


While I had the torch out, I also added a few more parts to the skylight area. First up were some plates for the headset jacks.
Headset Jack Plate

This plate will hold the headset jacks for the front and rear set occupant on one side.


This plate goes on the spanwise mini-bulkhead that I’m creating at the aft side of the skylight. This is what it looks like with a couple of the jacks installed temporarily.
Headset Jack Plate Populated

The switch is required to specify stereo or mono headsets. I've never seen an intercom that required such a switch.


Both Plates

The holes started out as small pilot holes, as you can see in this left-right before and after picture.


Headset Jack Plate Installed

Here it is after welding in place


This location will put the headset plugs and cords up and out of the way, behind the front seat passengers and ahead of the back seat passengers.



Hours
Logged: 3.5

Today was a two-part day. In the first session, I used a dremel tool to remove the weld on the vertical portion of the door threshold at the forward end. This was to allow for repositioning that piece so that it would attach properly to the aluminum piece that goes there. This also involved cutting loose the piece that I added on earlier.

This is the forward lower corner of the front door. I've removed the weld and the paint in the area so that I can bend the whole vertical piece out some.


This is the same piece that I added earlier in the year. This time I trimmed it and moved it inboard some to allow for the aluminum panel.

I also addressed a small scratch that I made on one of the engine mount tubes. I sanded the area with fine sandpaper to remove the scratch, then sprayed a little bit of temporary primer to keep it from rusting.

Engine Mount Touch Up

In the second session I added on the front tubes for the skylight, cut the chordwise tubes loose, bent them to a slight curve, raised the front piece up, and cut out some new stringer tabs. This is all work that I wrote about a few entries back.



Hours
Logged: 5.5

Today Tabitha came out again to finish squeezing some more wingtip rivets. We also tested the glue on the foams to make sure that it wasn’t going to dissolve them. The glue checked out OK, so we glued one of the bottom cushion combinations. Tabitha marked it for cutting and spent some time thinking about how all of that needed to be done.

Tabitha is trying out a few different seat foam combinations and marking them to cut.


While she was doing all of that I worked on more nutplates in the boot cowl/fuselage area. Danny stopped by, and he and I installed the engine mount.



Hours
Logged: 1.5

Today was a short day, but I was able to spend some time on the nutplates that will hold on the “optional” aluminum panel under the door. I learned about a few complications.

This is a hole for the nutplate that will hold on the aluminum panel under the door.

First, the nutplates won’t work well on the top unless I bend out the steel piece at the bottom of the door. The surface of the panel and the surface of the nutplate’s support have to be parallel. As it is, the steel piece is bent inward to help keep it from chaffing the fabric.

The second problem is that I have way too many holes in that panel! I’m going to spread them out a little on the top, and the door sill plate will help hide the unused holes (and share the used holes).

Here's a test flush #8 screw.



Hours
Logged: 5.1

Tabitha came out today too and we made some good progress. I was at a stopping point with the tailwheel spring because I didn’t have a drill that would handle larger bits. It had a temporary bolt in place of the AN-7 that is supposed to go in there. With the new drill I was able to get the hole up to size and reinstall the tailwheel spring.

I got this new drill so that I could use larger bits. All of my others have a 3/8\


Meanwhile, Tabitha was dimpling and squeezing the rivets for the wingtip flush mount strip.

Tabitha was dimpling and squeezing.


I also spent some time getting ready to install the engine mount, now that I have the hardware.



Hours
Logged: 2

Today Tabitha came out to help. With the seat pans finished, it was time to start thinking about cutting the foam for them. But first, the flooring supplies came in, both the foam padding and the top layer.

Here's the final color of flooring. It's the Nautolex Decko Dot in the charcoal color.


This is the 1/4\


The plan for the seats is to use one inch of firm tempur foam on the bottom, followed by urethane foam on top of that. I was initially planning on 1 inch of firm urethane followed by 2 inches of medium, for a total of 4 inches.

Mr. T tries out the back seat foam, but he says it isn't thick enough yet.


It looks like the 4″ cushion is going to limit the headroom, at least for me. We’ll keep the 1″ layer separate and use it when needed.

Here's a test of the 4\


Welding Goggles for extra effect

Here's a headroom test. Even without sitting up straight, there isn't a headset worth of space between my head and the ceiling structure.


Tabitha tries out the flap handle, demonstrating the need for inertia reels for the front two people.



Hours
Logged: 4

I started cutting and adding in some of the new skylight tubes today.

Here is a new chordwise tube. Note that it doesn't really fit just right.


I cut a notch into the tube to make it match the mounting area.
Mysterious note from the future!
I learned in retrospect that the following picture shows a tube that is ground a little too much. It should have been a little bit taller.

Now it fits better.


Here you can see the pair.


Mysterious note from the future number 2:
The above and below pictures show another problem. I put the tubes in as straight tubes, and they should have been curved slightly. Can you see what I mean? They should probably match the curves in the channels at the wing root.

From this angle you can see the new spanwise tubes, and the problem with the chordwise tubes.


While I was there, I welded the seatbelt tube in place.

Here's the completed seatbelt support tube, ready for prep and paint.



Hours
Logged: 6.1

Today I finished the back seat covering. Now it’s ready for some airplane noises.

Here's the finished back seat bottom.

It's a front seat, in a seat. It and the engine mount are just having a chat.

Here are some details of how I sequenced the overlaps.

Since our back seat has the added headrest structure, I covered the back in two pieces.

I wrapped the front fabric of the seat back around the back side of the bottom tube.


After I finished the back seat I took a little lunch break. Fellow EAA 731 member Kevin Ball stopped by and we spent an hour or so talking about the airplane, then I went over to Bart’s to take a look at his avionics work and to return his bending brake. When I got back, I started preparing the ceiling structure for the skylight.

The first step was to cut the stringers off. I left them a little bit long for final trimming.


I also cut the old stringer supports down a little bit to effectively lower the roof line about 1/4 inch, after accounting for the thickness of the new tube that will be on top of it. I copied the spanwise tube sizes from the plans at station C (T3, 3/8 x.035), and the chordwise tube sizes from the existing tubes in that area (T2 5/16x.058). I chose that size since the spanwise tube at station C serves the same purpose as my new tube at station N- a forward border for the fabric and an aft border for the other than fabric.

I decided to run the skylight back to the aft spar, which is further back than Pat ran his. I'm planning to have three separate panels that each run the full length. This will help reduce the compound curves in that area.


Bob has also specified that another tube be added between station N and the x cluster for supporting the shoulder harnesses for the front seat passengers, if the shoulder harness is going to attach out in the middle of that big tube at station N.

Note the areas that I've cleaned for welding in the seatbelt support tube.


Since the skylight will move the forward end of the stringers aft, I'll need to cut off these tabs.


In this picture I'm cutting away the old stringer supports.


This is looking mostly forward at what used to be the tab that supported the stringer


Here's a nice overview. The two little vertical tubes that used to be stringer supports will now hold the spanwise and chordwise skylight tubes, and the new forward attach tabs for the stringers. The paint is gone in the middle of the large tube for the seatbelt support tube.


I also did some measuring to decide on how far forward to take the skylight. One certainty is that this is a lot of effort to make a big hole in the roof, and I’ll have to carry sunshades to cover it up for a lot of the time.

I still haven't decided on where exactly to end the skylight on the forward side. Here are some options, with the numbers reflecting the number of inches from the windshield track. This shot is looking down at the top of the fuselage with the nose to the right.



Hours
Logged: 8

asting complete on 1, elt brscket on, control sticks done, cast 2, cover front seat bottoms and backs 1800 lunch?

With one aileron balance tube done, the second was easy. I’ll elaborate more on the process this time.

Here's the finished weight of the first lead tube. I will be able to drill some of the lead out once the aileron is covered to get a perfect balance.


I used a thick aluminum pan that Tabitha found at the thrift store, complete with a little pour spout. It was really perfect for pouring the lead.

I used tire weights that were really dirty. I would tilt the pan, and direct the torch at a tire weight. It was amazing to watch the bright silver liquid run out and leave the dirt, oxidation, and steel clip behind. A few passes with the torch helped be sure that all of the good lead was out. From there I would reach in and remove the nasties with needle nose pliers, putting them into a nearby rotel can. I would repeat this process until I had a fairly large puddle of bright lead, then I would reheat that puddle so that the whole thing was molten, and pour it into the tube. I would try to preheat the aluminum tube some too, in hopes that the lead would make it all the way to the bottom. Once the whole thing was cool and finished, I flipped it over and heated the other end. This caused all of the dirt and gravel to float up to the top, so I removed each of those with pliers. That left me with about a 1/4″ lip of aluminum as the lead settled into places that used to have little bits of rock in them.

I used a hammer to shrink the edge of the aluminum tube, so that it will help hold the lead in place more securely.

This would have been especially tidy if the whole tube was full, since then I could have the extra lead security on both ends.

Danny was telling me about an oil cooler that he didn’t use during his RV construction. Bob and others seem to think that it is adequate, and the price is great, so I think I’ll use it.

Oil Cooler donated by Danny

The control sticks are ready to repaint:

Here's the cap on top of the control stick, to support the push to talk.


I used the grinder to remove most of the weld bead around the control stick cap. This is to make sure that the grip will fit over the end, and this is certainly a non-structural piece, so I wasn't worried about removing the material.

I also finished the ELT bracket, except for cleaning and painting.

Here's the top of the ELT bracket, ready to weld to the bottom.


Here's the finished ELT bracket, ready to clean up and paint.

Today was a great productive day, and the weather was nice, so I figured I’d try a little bit of covering. I’m making the seat pans out of polyfiber covering, the same stuff as the exterior of the fuselage. The seats will be different from the airframe in that they won’t have any reinforcing tapes, UV protection, or color finishes.

I copied this idea from Oshkosh. The little cardboard disk helps reduce evaporation and drips.

Here's one of the front seat bottoms with the fabric on.

Today I finished covering the front seats, except for shrinking. I wanted to make this a priority so that I could get the seats ready for upholstery, which also involves cutting the foam cushions.



Hours
Logged: 5.3

It’s been a while since the last building entry, but I’ve been out of town more than usual. I just got back from Sun-N-Fun with a new list of ideas and a few new parts.

One of my SNF finds was these LED position lights. If I didn’t already have the aeroflash lights, I would have probably gone with a different setup, but since I do, I wanted to find some LEDs to replace the four incandescent bulbs. I had seen these before in the Aircraft Spruce catalog, and the guy who sells them to Spruce had a booth at the show. His price was a little better, so I got a set.

Here are the LED replacements for the position lights.


I took the cover off of the nav lights and took this picture.

Inside of the Aeroflash


This is the green LED in place


And the aft-facing white


Here's the whole assembly back together again. I replaced the green lens with a clear one, and was actually able to sell the original lens and bulbs to offset the price of the new parts.


On the red side I found that the gasket wasn’t properly installed you can see what I mean at the pointy end of the strobe insulator.

Notice how the black gasket doesn't quite fit right.


The white insulator wasn't quite right either.


When I put it all back together I put the gasket on correctly and also made sure that the white insulator was correct. I wonder if it came from the factory this way.
I realized that I should probably take some documentation pictures of the engine and accessories, because I always find myself with questions when I’m away from home.

The Starter...


...and the ignition wires...


...and the starter ring gear...


...and the carburetor...


...and the carburetor data plate...


I also found a baffle kit for sale second hand. This one wasn’t related to sun-n-fun, but I hadn’t had a chance to go through the kit to make sure that it was complete.

The plans for the Vans baffle kit are on one big sheet


There's all sorts of hardware in there


To change gears again, I finally had enough lead to fill the aileron balance tube. I ran safety wire from the corner of the bench to the tube, then leaned the tube slightly down and to the right as shown in this picture.

Aileron Balance Tube


This is a 1″ tube, which is larger than the 3/4″ tube originally designed in the plans. The diameter change is to improve the aileron if I recall correctly- it doesn’t really matter, since my ailerons have a 1″ hole in them. Back with the old 3/4″ tube, builders had to fill the entire tube with lead in order to get the required 5.5 pounds. I’m glad that another builder pointed out that the 1″ tube definitely does not need to be full. Without this tip I might have not thought about that until it was full of lead. I started to wonder if this uneven weight distribution would be a problem. I asked Bob, and he said to just leave the tube at it’s full length so that it will have more attachment points, and not worry about it. I’ll probably have to drill some of the lead out to actually balance the aileron. If I leave the 1″ hole open during covering, I will still be able to get a long drill bit into the lead. I can make small covers to pop-rivet over the 1″ holes when that is done. This will also come in handy if I need to recover the aileron later.

While I had the torch out, I figured I would also weld a cap onto each of the control sticks. This will make it much easier to mount a push to talk switch on the top. In this picture I’ve cleaned the paint off in preparation for welding.

Control Stick prior to welding


I also removed the paint for the ELT bracket


I don't remember where I got the idea for this holding fixture. It is 16 gauge copper wire and alligator clips. For tacking it works well, but since the clips are soldered it might not hold if it gets too hot.



Hours
Logged: 3

Today I was in the mood for some welding. First, I noticed back when I primed the headrests that I had missed a problem with one of them. I had started to cut one of the horizontal tubes, then realized that I was cutting in the wrong place. This left a scored line around the tube, so I wanted to grind the paint off and run a bead around that score mark to remove the potential stress riser.

Fixing a problem with one headrest


Next, I needed to make a welding cart to hold my tanks. I started with this cheap harbor freight hand truck and spent an hour or so modifying it. I didn’t count this time towards Bearhawk building of course.

Starting point for a welding cart


With the tanks safely secured, I started on that ELT bracket. I started with the tube that will hold the fairlead plastic, and a short piece of tube that will locate that tube vertically.

Even with as much practice as I have, I still am not a pro. Note how I didn't get out fast enough with the torch at the edge of that thin 7/8\


My goal was to try and locate the top of the antenna plate just below the level of the stringers, just in case the covering had a little bit of sag between them. The reality is that since the stringers are so close together at that point, the covering probably won’t sag at all.

The ruler is just a straight edge to hold the bracket blank level with the stringers.


Here’s the blank after I’ve bent it. It’s going to be a tight fit with a 90 degree BNC adapter to keep the coax out of the elevator trim cable’s way.

ELT antenna bracket view from the top


Here's the top half of the bracket



Hours
Logged: 2

I needed to bend the new aft cable guards again, so this time I took some pictures of the process that I described earlier. Thanks again to Brad and Joel for letting me use their machinery! The weather was nice, so I put the blanks into the car that Dad was driving down to the IPJ airport. His airplane was down there getting a new engine and he was helping them get it installed. He was going to be there all day, so I rode a motorcycle down there at around lunch time so that I could borrow their brake.

3-in-1 Sheet Metal Tool

3-in-1 Sheet Metal Tool


Theirs is the combination brake, shear, and roller from Northern Tool. I’d love to have one in my shop, but I probably wouldn’t use it enough to justify the cost. In fact, I’d rather have the larger version that could handle a 48″ wide sheet of aluminum, but even the cheap Chinese version is close to $1000 and 700 pounds- I definitely wouldn’t use that one enough to justify the cost! This one is very handy, but has some important limitations.
Bending Die with No Radius

This isn't enough of a radius for 2024-T3


The primary limitation is that the bending dies don’t have any radius. As you can see from this picture, they are quite sharp. Since the 2024-T3 Aluminum is so hard, it tends to crack if bent under these circumstances.
Fake Radius

Here's Bob's solution for adding radius to the dies


In this picture you can see the corrective action (as outlined by Bob in the early Beartracks) which is made out of some aluminum flashing. I used one piece on the bottom (just to prevent scratches from the sharp edges) and a handful of pieces on the top. If this were my own brake, I would modify the dies to have a 1/8″ radius permanently, but since it isn’t, I just use these pieces instead. The above picture actually also shows a blank in place and ready for bending. I bent the two pieces as before and enjoyed a fantastic spring ride back home. Everything is really starting to bloom and grow again, and the little two lane roads are full of lots of great yards and gardens to see.
Cabin Air Intakes

Here are the Vans cabin air intakes

Once I got back to the hangar I opened up a box from Vans that included the two air intakes for the cabin air and the countersunk nutplates for the boot cowl. Their price on the nutplates was better than spruce at somewhere around 50 cents each, and I’m going to use them for the parts of the boot cowl that aren’t riveted. The vents will provide fresh air to the two front seat occupants, and there’s no way that I would try to make them myself since Vans sells them for such a reasonable price.



Hours
Logged: 3

Today I spent some time going through a big order of parts and hardware. This order included lots of stuff, including the rest of the screws for the wing inspection panels.

Bearhawk Wing Inspection Panel Screw Organization

This is my organization method for the wing inspection panel screws. Each panel gets one compartment. Can you guess which ones are for the fuel tank panels?


Dad was in town, so he cut out some new strips of aluminum for the aft section of the rudder cable guards.
Deburring with the scotch brite wheel

Dad deburrs the new cable guard blanks on the scotch brite wheel (which he gave me for my birthday).


I also ordered a foot of 7/8 .035 4130 to make fairleads out of.
Fairlead Tube

A new fairlead tube for the ELT bracket


Here’s where the new fairlead will go, just under the new ELT antenna bracket that I haven’t made yet.
Bearhawk ELT Bracket Fairlead

It goes here, mostly. This is the buklhead station aft of the rear cabin bulkhead.



Hours
Logged: 2

Dad helps drill some rivets while he's in town


Dad was in town today so he stopped by to drill out some rivets. Tabitha was also there with us. In the picture she is working on her practice toolbox from Van’s. She said that she should get to work on the real airplane since dad gets to work on the real airplane, and said that she doesn’t want to work on the toolbox anymore. I told her that’s fine, but that she can’t have my toolbox! The little practice kit really makes a cool little box. I spent the rest of the time helping the two of them and getting the shop straightened up.

Tabitha's Practice Toolbox



Hours
Logged: 3.1

This was my first attempt at making a transition for the rudder cable guard. Since this piece was too short (see the left side of the picture) I figured it was expendable. I think that the best solution is going to be a combination of a piece like this one (but longer) and a door sill plate. I should be able to attach the two together.

Cable Guard at Baggage Door

Rudder cable guard at aft cargo door sill, looking down.


I also spent a while on the wingtips again. This course of action has not been worth the time that it has taken. I should have just filled the old holes and gone with the basic fiberglass over aluminum mounting method.



Hours
Logged: 2

Today I drilled and clecoed the rudder cable guards in place. The aft guards are too short. I tried to make them 24″ long each so that they would come out of a 48″ piece of stock. Since the aft bulkhead forms an obtuse angle with the floorboard, the cable guard needs to be longer on the top, and I didn’t account for that. The other complication is the back door on the right side. Since the door sill goes so low, I’ll have to figure out a way to make the transition.

Bearhawk Rudder Cable Guards

Rudder cable guards temporarily in place



Hours
Logged:

Today I drove up to Bob’s to pick up our engine! My day started very early in a hotel near the Tri-Cities airport. In a rare work schedule fluke, my day ended when we arrived in CLT at around 6:15 in the morning. I drove down to the south part of CLT to get to the Harbor Freight store, since there weren’t any others on the way. I had found a coupon that would reduce the price of their engine lift to $100, and I knew that I was going to need it before the day was over. I knew that today was going to be the engine day, so I had also tossed an old tire that I picked up from Claude’s into the bed of the truck a few days earlier.

Leaving the Harbor Freight store in Charlotte


I got to Bob’s at about 12:30, and it was a pretty chilly day. The engine had actually been ready for a couple of weeks, but he advised that I not try to come due to the icy and muddy conditions. Even now the runway was just visible.

Bob's Winter Runway


Bob had made quite a bit of progress on the LSA variant of his Bearhawk Patrol design. As you can see, now the wings are on it and it even looks like an airplane.
Bearhawk Patrol LSA

Bearhawk Patrol LSA


After a few minutes of conversation and Bob’s explanation of a few key features, Bob and Bruce loaded the engine up for me. Here they are taking it off of the stand.
Bob and Bruce Barrows

Bob and Bruce take off the engine stand


I asked Bob about whether or not he would still use electrical conduit parts for an exhaust system, now that he has over 10 years and 1000 hours on his. He said that he would, and he offered to go out to his prototype Bearhawk to take some pictures.

Bob's Exhaust System


I also really liked the design of his heat box for cabin and carb heat. Left and right exhaust muffs take hot air into a mixing box, where both supply cabin and/or carb heat as needed. Carb heat exits through the forward-facing SCAT tube, an cabin heat exits through the aft side of the box. These kinds of pictures can be really handy for other purposes too.
Bearhawk Exhaust and Heat Muffs

Exhaust and Heat Muffs


Engine Compartment

Here's another really handy picture of how Bob has everything routed.


It was getting to be time to go, since the weather forecast for more snow was starting to materialize into a wintry mix.
Fincastle Snowfall

The snow was starting to come down again


We put the engine onto the tire, strapped the engine to the bed, then covered the whole unit with a blue tarp. To limit flapping, I bunched up handfuls of tarp and used wire ties to secure them.

Ready to drive home


Bob was saying that the snow had just melted enough to clear the runway, then it started again.


As I started to drive south, the snow turned to rain and the interstate stopped moving. It turns out there had been an accident, and I was able to shut off the truck and sit in the same place for more than an hour.

Driving in the Snow


At about 8:30 I finally backed the truck into the hangar. 6 hours for a 3.5 hour trip! Tabitha met me there to help assemble the engine lift.

Back Home!


The next few pictures are a little bit blurry since it was dark.

Ready to Unload-Almost


We had to assemble the lift before we could unload the engine. By this point I had been awake for quite a while, so it took longer than it should have to get it together.

Please inserting the lower foot support into extension leg part 42


Tabitha was helping too


Here is the engine, unwrapped and looking all new.

Engine Ready to Unload


I thought I should test the lift before I put something expensive on it.

Testing the Lift- it works.


In the end it was a pretty long day, but I was glad that everything went well.



Hours
Logged: .5

I have been looking for some good material to use as a floor covering. Bob uses bare aluminum, and that method certainly has some merits. It is light, simple, and durable. Tabitha would rather have something that looks a bit more finished, but also something that dampens vibration a little bit better. She says that prolonged exposure of her feet to a vibrating structure like the floor will accelerate the development of arthritis and contribute to an overall mood of malaise and discontent.

I don’t really want to use something like carpet, because I know that it is going to be harder to clean than a solid surface. I don’t want to have to worry about getting into the airplane with slightly dirty shoes. I’d really like to find the airplane equivalent of linoleum, and there is a great example of it on the floor of our planes at work. It is thin, easy to clean, and super durable. It gets the foot traffic of lots of people, every other hour or so, every day, all day, and lasts years under those conditions. I asked a few of the mechanics about where it comes from, but they don’t know. Even if I could find who makes it, chances are good that it would not be available in the small quanitity and price that I would like to have.

A similar product is available for household floors, but it is 1/8″ thick and extremely heavy (pounds per square foot).

One of the email list members suggested that I try products intended for boat floors. This was a good lead, and soon I found Nautolux Decco Dot flooring. It has all of the good qualities that I like, and it is very light weight. I think that the entire floor would be under 5 pounds, perhaps even less. The bad news about the Nautolux is that it is a little bit too thin, such that it needs to be glued down to stay flat. It also doesn’t have much in the way of vibration dampening. I ordered a sample piece to try some burn testing on.

The whole idea of burn testing is a little bit silly in some ways. At first it seems like a really good idea to make sure that the interior materials have good qualities with regard to flamability. The unfortunate reality is that since the rest of the interior is made of aircraft fabric, the huge wall sections are certainly the weakest link. Having said that, I’m planning to burn a small piece of each proposed interior material, just to see if it is at least acceptable. Burn tests aren’t legally required for experimental airplanes of course.

Since the Nautolux is so thin, I figured that I could try to find some 1/8″ closed cell foam to use between it and the floor. This would help dampen vibration and noise, and also not add too much weight.

Decco Dot Sample Piece

I took the above piece and stuck it in the propane heater for an unscientific test. It started to burn, and when I took it away from the heater, the flame died down. That’s convincing enough for me, since it didn’t continue to burn brighter.



Hours
Logged: 2

Today I was able to get away for a few minutes to finish prepping the seat frames for paint and apply a coat of epoxy primer. Today was one of the first days that we’ve had lately with a warm enough temperature.

Spray Gun

Chinese Spray Gun

This was my first time to use the little Chinese paint gun that I picked up a while back. I didn’t know how it was going to work, so I did some practice painting with some alcohol that I had on hand- simply because it was cheap and not water.

Headrest frames ready to prime

Colorful Polyfiber cans and colorful paint gun box

It was good to get a feel for how each of the different knobs changed the spray charactaristics. Since I was painting tubes, I adjusted the fan pattern to the narrowest setting.

Practicing with the paint gun- note the intentional run on the upper left.

I followed the directions on the can for mixing the polyfiber primer and poured it into the cup. For practice I painted a section of the side of the clubhouse. I wanted to see how much spray it would take to make the paint run, so you can see a couple of nasty spots. Feeling well prepared enough, I started spraying the seats. The most difficult but yet most important thing to remember was to keep the gun far enough away from the work- about a foot or so. When I started to get distracted I would find myself holding the gun way too close and getting too much paint on.

Here's the back seat frame after priming and headset modifications.

Bearhawk Front Seat Backs

Bearhawk front seat backs after priming

Bearhawk Headrest Modification

Here are the Headset Frames after priming

While I had the primer out, I also primed the elevator trim pushrods.

In the end I was quite satisfied with the finished product. Using the spray gun was easier than using a rattle can, mostly because of the “air only” trigger setting. I could keep the air flowing all the time, and then just spray the paint when necessary.

I cleaned the gun with some reducer, and then left to go to work.



Hours
Logged: 3.5

My plan was to use my cheap little sand blaster to prep the seat frames, but it didn’t work so well. The sand blaster needs some attention, but I was able to use it to clean most of the weld beads. Since the rest of the areas were flat and mostly straight, I used the scotchbrite wheel in the angle die grinder to clean them. The whole process took a while, but now the seat frames are ready to paint.

Clean Seat Frame

The steel really shines up nice with the burned paint and mill scale removed.

Close-up

In this close-up view you can see the sandblasted area vs the scotchbrite area.





Hours
Logged: .5

Since my toy brake only bends pieces up to 18″ wide, I had to find another way to bend the longer rudder cable guards. They are 25″ and 29″. Brad was nice enough to let me use the brake at his shop. It was a combination roll/shear/brake from Northern tool, and the dies were really sharp. I used Bob’s tip from the ancient Beartracks to make a protective shoe. I ran over to lowes and picked up a roll of flashing, then used the shear to cut strips that were wider than 30″ and about 3″ across. I bent those in the brake, then sandwiched the good aluminum parts between. The flashing was thin, so I ended up using about 6 pieces above and 2 below in order to get a radius that was acceptable for the 2024T3 guards.



Hours
Logged: 3

Today I drilled the top mounting holes for the right wingtip and clecoed everything in place. I’m still going to have to do some work on the gap between the fiberglass and aluminum to try and get something that is rain tight. I walked over to Danny’s hangar to see how Vans solves the problem, and I really like their solution. His RV-7 has the outboard wing rib mounted about 1.5 inches inboard of the end of the skin, which allows that the fiberglass part fits under the wing skin. In this case, there are no waves at the fasteners because the wing skin spreads the load like a giant washer. Since the skin is only .025″ thick, from arms length it looks flush. If the inboard edge of the fiberglass isn’t perfectly straight, it doesn’t show, since it is under the aluminum. This would be a cool feature to incorporate for a scratch builder, but I can’t see how it would be practical to do this late in the game. Here are some pictures of the vans setup:

Vans Wingtip

Note that the fiberglass is under the wing skin

Wider Angle - From here there are no waves, and it looks flush because the wing skin is so thin.

At the Aileron it switches to fiberglass on top.



While I had the wingtip mounted, I wanted to see how hard it was going to be to remove the ridge that the wingtip had as a result of the mold. The fiberglass is pretty thick in that section, and I was able to file the ridge flush without getting through the white coat in all but just a few spots. With some filler and wet sanding, this tip will look great.

This is the ridge left during the manufacturing of the wingtip. The file takes it right off.

Here I am filing off the ridge, not straying too far from the propane heater.




Now I get to do it all again. I’m glad this isn’t a biplane!



Hours
Logged: 4

I wanted a break from the wingtips today so I started working on some guards for the rudder cables. Since the cables run along the inside of the cabin, I wanted to protect them from passengers who are children, passengers who act like children, and shifting cargo. I also plan to use the guards to hold down the floor covering, once I finally find the covering that I’m looking for.

It's Cold! Here I am cutting some 4" blanks for the guards, not getting too far from my best friend the heater.

I started out by cutting some strips of .025″ 2024-T3 off of the 48″ stock. It sure would be nice to have a 52 inch wide combination brake, roller, and shear. Or, at least a shear! I cut them out with the snips, then deburred, rounded the corners, and polished the edges. I started with 3 strips, since I needed 4 total pieces at 30 inches x2 and 24 inches x2. The two bonus 18 inch pieces came in handy for the front 9″ panels and for test strips.

Rudder Cable Guard Strips

A Skinny Test Piece for Shape Idea #1

This was the first idea that I had. I had planned to drill holes in the top and thus be able to mount the guards with the same screws that held down the floorboard. I liked that concept, but this guard wasn’t very aesthetically elegant, nor was it very rigid. The best looking examples that I had seen used angled pieces, so I tried a few more samples.

Let's try some other shapes...

Here they are in place, just visualize the vertical panel. This picture is looking down at the white floorboards.

Here are a few eligible configurations.

After seeing all of these in place, the only realistic choice is the one with two 135 degree bends. I’ll just end up putting a couple of extra nutplates in the floorboards, and that will be well worth the result. Now, to finalize the specifics…

This one looks too close to the cable. My goal is now to make one that has as much clearance as the OD of the fairlead, just to provide some extra margin.

I know it’s kind of arbitrary to make the guard clear the fairlead, but since the OD of the fairlead tube is 7/8″, that gives the rudder cable more room to work without bringing the guard way out into the interior.

There's no need for the shape not to be symetrical. I'm glad I was trying this with little test strips!

I experimented with a few different lengths. It was sort of like goldilocks and the three bears. Perhaps I should call this story alumilocks and the one bearhawk.

This one's too long, see how there is a large gap between the guard and the fairlead?

The straight stretch is too short on this one. It needs a longer hypotenuse.

This looks better!

Here's the "just right." Note how it just clears the fairlead.

Here are the various test subjects. The best one has a 7/8″ flange on either side, leaving 2.25 inches in the middle.

Final Results: 7/8-2.25-7/8 (bottom) wins.

With good results from the test strip, I bent the first 9″ panel. Since my little toy brake can only handle short pieces, this was a logical choice.

Here's where this piece goes. It is protection from the right side passesnger's right foot.

I knew that I would have to do some trimming, in this case to clear the front seatbelt mount and the front seat track.

Here's a bent blank, ready to trim the top corner and make a hole for the seatbelt.

Here’s the test piece in place. Before I make the other side I guess I should put a front seat in and make sure that I don’t have any unforeseen problems.

Here's a view from the front looking aft

Bearhawk Rudder Cable Guard

Here's a top view of the rudder cable guard with the cutout for the front seatbelt.

Here's the front guard ready for testing

Here's a test fit to see if I got the radius correct. Not bad for the first try.

I had to stop there since I couldn’t bend the larger pieces. I’ve got some good leads on a bending brake that can handle the 30″ wide width.

Since I had a few extra minutes I figured I would make the support tube for the top of the fuselage. The stock Avipro fuselage has arrangements for a single shoulder harness attach for each front seat passenger. To use a dual shoulder strap (or a single y-shape) Bob recommends adding the tube from the rear spar carry through forward to the x cluster in the middle.

Here I am test-fitting the tube. Fish-mouthing with the grinder is not hard at all, and I've only done it a dozen times.

Bearhawk Shoulder Harness Support Tube

Support Tube for Shoulder Harnesses - the black one that's hard to see.

There’s not much to it. I can see why I keep hearing stories of people who buy a fancy tube notching contraption and then stop using it when they figure out how easy it is to fish-mouth with a grinder. While I was there I stood by my little heater and worked out how I’d like to incorporate the skylight. I think I’m going to reproduce the structure that happens under the fuselage at the trailing edge of the boot cowl (the trapezoid shape) over the top of the main spar carry-through. This will act as a rear support for the skylight. I’ll add extend the longitudinal tubes in the roof area near the trim wheel back to that point, and then add in another 3/8″ tube spanwise trapezoid somewhere up there where it starts to get curvy. I was glad to have some time to wrap my head around all of that and make a shopping list.



Hours
Logged: 4

I was able to get some good working time in today. The two areas of interest were the wingtip and the seats.

Back when I was at Bob’s this fall, I noticed that the fiberglass wingtips on his new Patrol LSA prototype were really smooth, with no waves between the rivets. I asked him how he did that, and he said that he put a protective piece of wood on the trailing edge (where the aileron would go) and used a ratchet strap to pull the wingtip tightly aft and down to the wing. Today since I was finished with the underlying AL support strip, I got out the ratchet strap and did some drilling.

Ratchet Strap on Wingtip

Here is the ratchet strap in place. I had to slide it left and right occasionally for drilling.

Hole Displacement

Here you can see the difference that the strap makes. The black hole on the fiberglass part used to correspond with the larger (center of 3) rivet hole. This picture is fairly close to the leading edge, and the strap is pulling towards the left side of the picture.

Hole displacement

Here you can see the old hole. Note how far the old hole is from the large rivet.

I’ll have to say that the ratchet strap did make a big difference, which was cumulative as I worked my way aft. There was probably a half-inch difference at the aft section. This is certainly better, but I’m still not all that pleased with the finished product. It still has some waviness.

Burned Hair

This is a picture of my burned hair, after reaching down to pick up something that was a little bit too close to the heater. Working on airplanes in the cold is a hazardous occupation!

Before I did any drilling, I wanted to make sure that the trailing edge of the wingtip was going to be parallel with the trailing edge of the rest of the wing. After all, if it was tilted, it would be acting like a miniature aileron all of the time. Since I’m trying for a flush mount, I had to trim the inboard side of the top of the wingtip so that the trailing edge would line up while the edges were flush with the skin.

Wingtip Alignment

Can you see how the trailing edge of the wingtip is now aligned with the trailing edge of the wing?

Trimming the Wingtip

In order to make that alignment possible with the flush mount, I had to trim about 3/16 of an inch off of one side.

Me trimming the wingtip

See, it is me doing the work.

After it started to get too cold to work in the hangar, I went back home to check on my chemistry project. I was wanting to weld some nuts onto the seat backs that would accept thumb screws. These thumb screws would hold the headrests in place, though for now the headrests are pretty snug as it is. I was worried about welding the zinc plated nuts and having zinc fumes, so I did some Googling. It turns out that zinc is very reactive and will dissolve in just about any acid. Steel also dissolves in most acids, which is a problem since the base metal of the nut is steel. Fortunately, phosphoric acid is one that will dissolve the zinc and leave the steel alone. This is handy, since I can drop the nuts into a jar and come back later without coming back to an empty jar. I left them in there for a few days, until they had mostly stopped bubbling.

Tapped Hole

I used a tap to cut threads into the tubes, so that I can use a screw to hold the nut in place during welding. These threads will also function in the final part.

First, I drilled and tapped the actual seat part. These threads were deep enough to hold a finger-tight screw in place, but certainly not deep enough for use in service. I threaded the nut onto the screw, put the screw into the seat hole, and lightly snugged the nut down tight to the seat part. This would help ensure that the threads would be lined up.

Nut Ready to Weld

The stainless screw is there to hold the nut in place and limit distortion. Note the dull luster of the nut after its acid dip.

I was reading the conversations on the Bearhawk email group about problems with welding nuts. Lots of folks were having problems with distortion of the threads during welding, so I took some of the advice of the more experienced welders to try and mitigate the distortion. For starters, I put a screw into the threads when I did the welding. Also, I tacked on four sides and tried to keep the puddle away from the middle of the nut as much as possible. Finally, I took the screw out as soon as I finished the weld, so that it wasn’t stuck there forever.

Nut Welded in Place

Here's the finished product, ready to blast and paint.


After the part cooled completely, I chased the threads one more time with the tap and everything was ready to paint.



Hours
Logged: 4

Today I was working on the wingtip mounting strip. I had originally put it in place with about a 3/16″ gap between the strip and the aileron, but I was re-reading Eric’s Building Manual and saw where he recommended a 1/2″ gap. This made a lot more sense, especially because it would be pretty stinky to have the aileron rubbing on the wingtip. So today I adjusted that gap, and spent the rest of the time drilling, deburring, and dimpling the holes on the wing side of the strip.

While I was working, I realized that in the past I would often work until I got to a stopping point. For example, in the case of this part, I would prep all of the holes, put in all of the rivets, and then go home. Then, next time i came to work, I would start on a new task. I realized that this is probably not the most productive way to work. Instead, I should not set the last 10-20 rivets, but leave the clecos in. That way, when I come back to work next time, I can walk in the door, turn on the lights (and my good friend the propane heater) and pick up the squeezer and get to work. By the time I’ve set all of the rivets, my mind is in the workshop mode and I’m ready to move on to the next task. This realization was certainly counterintuitive, but quite helpful nevertheless.



Hours
Logged: .3

Today I didn’t have much time to work, but I did want to start the zinc removal on the headrest nuts. Welding zinc plated parts can lead to the discharge of zinc fumes, which can lead to zinc poisoning, which is not any fun from what I hear. So today I dropped a few of the nuts into a small jar of phosphoric acid and watched them bubble. I found the phosphoric acid at the big orange, in the paint stripping aisle.



Hours
Logged:

Today was just more of the same work on the headrests. This entry is just to preserve the hours and the date. I’m having lots of fun and getting some good welding practice on the whole headrest operation for sure.



Hours
Logged: 1

Today I added the vertical receiving posts for the back seat headrests. By now this is getting to be fairly routine, though I do find myself craving welding. I really could just sit around and weld stuff for hours.



Hours
Logged: 1

I’ve been really busy lately, so to stay on track I started today with working in one-hour increments on the principle that one hour is better than no hours. We’ve had some exceptionally good weather, so I was able to get together with Dave for some motorcycling and wood cutting. I can build airplanes inside for the rest of the winter I figure. Today has still been productive though, since I’ve pretty much finished the welding on the front seats and have started on the back seat. Here are some pictures of the progress.

One Bearhawk Front Seat

Here is one of the front seat backs with all of the welding done. I still need to trim off the top of the receiving tubes, which I left long for the purpose of heat control during welding.

Receiving Tubes Cut Flush

Here I've cut those receiving tubes off. I also chased the inside of the tube with a large drill bit to help remove the welding slag.

The Headrest Jig

Here is a jig that I made to help keep the headrests uniform. To minimize distortion, I also tacked each side on the top and bottom before finish welding in quarters.

No need for accuracy here

When I was cutting out the steel blanks to use as the headrest endcaps, it occurred to me that I didn't really need to have a very accurate cut, since excess material outside of the line would just act as a filler metal.

One Finished End Cap

Here you can see a finished end cap.

Grinding off the Pain

I've found that my angle die grinder and a rol-loc scotchbrite pad cut through the avipro primer quite nicely. The sound and smell both remind me of the dentist's office.

Welding a Headrest

That isn't a very ergonomic position to weld in, is it...




Hours
Logged: 2

Tonight I got back into the shop and worked on welding the horizontal supports and headrest receiving tubes on the front seats.



Hours
Logged: 3

With all of those tubes cut, it was time to start welding. I started by installing the horizontal pieces. This was just a matter of measuring the height on the left and right side and tacking the tube in place. After I had installed the first vertical tube I remembered about how I should have drilled a small hole to allow the air inside of the tubes to ventilate. A nice reminder came when i couldn’t close up a vent hole that kept opening itself at the junction of the two tubes while I was welding. To fix the problem, I just drilled from the outside of the original vertical seat tube all the way through to the inside, so that the hole would fall inside of the new horizontal tube. When I had finished the whole seat, I just filled up the new outside hole by welding.

I wanted to finish both the seat and the headrest for the first one so that I could make sure I didn’t have any unforeseen problems. Then, I started on the second seat. There are two lessons that I learned that I will share in case you are planning a similar modification. First, don’t weld the new horizontal tube in place until you have drilled the holes in the old top horizontal and filed them to the final shape. With the new horizontal in place, you can’t get the drill and unibit in there to drill from the bottom up, and since the unibit has such a short reach, you can’t get it from above either. You can disregard all of that if you have a right angle drill.

The second lesson is that it is much easier to grind the paint off of the original top tube before drilling the holes for the verticals, and it probably takes much less life out of the scotchbrite disk to do it that way.



Hours
Logged: 6

I should add some background information here about why I would want to mess up a perfectly good set of Avipro seats. In my research about how to make safe seats, I read about how important headrests are. Most pilots and builders that I talk with about this disagree. They say that most impacts in airplanes are down and forward, and that headrests are included in cars for rear-end protection. Others seem to approach crash safety from the point of view that seems to imply that they really don’t care, since they probably aren’t going to crash, and if they do, then they probably aren’t going to survive.

The whole safety discussion is one to approach with care. The way to make any airplane as safe as possible is of course to not fly it. This extreme end of a spectrum can be juxtaposed with the other end of the same spectrum, which is something like the latter pilot opinion above. The middle ground has several optional stopping points, and the end decision is a compromise between improving the odds of survival in an unplanned acceleration and being able to operate a useful and affordable airplane. While it’s easy to set out to build the safest airplane possible, each proposed safety feature has at least four costs: weight, expense, building time, and impact to useful operation. The final airplane configuration certainly reflects the builder’s willingness to pay on those four counts, and coincides with his understanding of the cost/benefit ratio of each feature.

For me, there are several safety features that I’m choosing not to incorporate, simply because the 4 costs above don’t outweigh the potential gain. One example is a Ballistic Recovery System, like the parachutes on Cirrus airplanes. Including a BRS would require redesigning the fuselage, spending tens of thousands of dollars on the equipment, and adding weight and recurring maintenance tasks to the finished airplane. In the event of a mid-air collision or structural failure, a BRS would certainly be nice to have, but for me the odds of those events happening are slim enough that the potential benefit of a BRS isn’t high enough to justify all of the costs.

One safety feature that I do plan to incorporate is 5-point seat belts for all 4 passengers. Some people feel the same way about seat belts as I do about a BRS; I think it’s interesting to see how other builders position themselves on this spectrum of safety. I know of one builder who feels fine with a single lap belt for both rear passengers to share- and he is a very informed and experienced airplane builder and pilot. My point of view is certainly influenced by my own past experiences, which include surviving (without serious injury) a forced landing and two serious car wrecks, among numerous other less notable but similar events. I believe that it takes first-hand experience of the kind of accelerations involved in an event like that to really appreciate the forces and the complete inadequacy of the occupant to do much of anything about restraining himself with his own strength or actions. I’m convinced for sure, so for me the seat belts are an easy decision. I don’t want to imply that another builder is wrong because he finds himself in a different place on the spectrum, but I might take all of that into account before I ask for a ride in his airplane.

So to get back to headrests, the issue isn’t trying to protect the occupant from the primary collision- though it would be possible to have an impact similar to being rear-ended, the odds would be infinitesimally small. The protection is for the secondary impact that comes when the occupant bounces off of the shoulder harnesses and back into his seat. The headrest has a relatively small investment of cost, weight, and building complexity. As for operational impact, I’d argue that it actually improves operations (depending on the design). My primary area of concern for operational impact is the space that the headrest takes up in the cabin. I didn’t really want it to stick up above the seat, since it would be in the way at times. In the back seat, the headrest would actually protrude into the baggage area somewhat. While I was pondering these points, I found myself riding in a minivan- it was a late model dodge caravan. Here is what the back seat headrests look like:

Headrest Extended

Here is a poor picture of the headrest in the extended position. Note how the vertical posts attach at the top of the headrest instead of the bottom.


Headrest Collapsed

Headrest Collapsed


The only thing better than coming up with a good idea is copying someone else’s great idea, so I called the local junkyards to start looking for a set of 4 late model caravan headrests. Everyone that I spoke with wasn’t interested in selling just a headrest, since they want to hold out and sell the whole seat instead. This issue combined with the desire on my part to keep the weight down led me to just plan on new fabrication instead.

I started by ordering some 4130 tubes. The vertical supporting tubes have a 1/2″ inner diameter (or so), so the 1/2″ OD tubes that make up the headrests themselves can fit in there with a little bit of wiggle. In retrospect, I wish I’d chosen a thinner diameter tube for the vertical, realizing that a little bit more clearance between the telescoping tubes wouldn’t have been a big problem.

Here is the result of some time with a plumbing-style tube cutter – not pictured: sore wrists:

Pile o tubes

Since there are 4 seats, there are 8 vertical posts of each size for a total of 16. The horizontal tube in the seat is 3/4\

Having watched Tinman’s awesome videos about welding, I had been told that the easiest way to cut the fishmouth shape in the tubes was to use a bench grinder and an eyeball. The grinder is for shaping the tube, and the eyeball is for knowing when it is right. I was sold on the idea, though when I talk to people who haven’t built with tubing before, they think that they will certainly need some sort of tube cutting tool. I guess the whole idea of having to make the curved cuts is very intimidating, with further evidence being the money that some builders spend on CNC cut tubes. I figured that this would be a great way to try out the grinder/eyeball combination, since neither the vertical headrest supports nor the receiving tubes were length-critical. In fact, I had left both intentionally long with plans to cut them later. If I needed to start over with a new fishmouth, it wouldn’t be an issue.

The truth is that after one or two tubes, I felt like I had it down. I would just grind it until it looked about right, then test fit, then grind a bit more if necessary. Something that makes it easier is that the welding process can certainly tolerate a 1/16″ gap, so the pieces don’t really have to fit together with CNC accuracy. Level 2 of difficulty was to cut the horizontal tubes that go between the original seat verticals, since the fishmouths have to be cut not just to a 3/4″ diameter, but they must also be cut parallel to each other and positioned to account for the distance between the seats. I did have to redo one of these pieces, simply because I cut the fishmouth 90 degrees off. In the videos they said that I would do that before too long.

To locate the vertical tubes, I found and marked the left-right center of the tube that makes up the top of the seat back. This was a little bit tricky, since the tube has such a nice big radius. Working out from the centerline, I marked the holes for the receiving tubes at 6″ center to center. I drilled with a small pilot hole first, as you can see below. This hole was sort of high stress emotionally, since it was the point of no return on some pretty expensive parts.

Pilot Hole

After some careful measuring, here is a pilot hole for the receiving tube.

A little bit bigger

Here's a little bit bigger hole, large enough to start on the step-drill.

Two big holes!

Now these seats are really ruined! I did get a little bit overzealous with the unibit on one of the holes. The 3/4 inch diameter on the tube means that you have a section town below that needs to be opened up to final size with a file, and you have to stop with the drill when you get to the desired diameter on the top of the tube.

Test-fit Vertical

After a little bit of filing, the vertical finally fits in.

View from Below

It is important to remember to drill these holes before you put in a horizontal, since the unibit has to come up from the bottom on these holes. These tubes are way too thin to use a conventional twist drill on.

Fish mouths

Here are the tubes all lined up after fishmouth grinding.

Back Seat Horizontal

Here is the horizontal for the back seat.

This was an enjoyable process, but it was getting too cold to weld in the hangar. Since the 4130 tubing has to cool at just the right rate, a cold workshop creates undesirably hardened welds that can be subject to cracking. I don’t really have any way to warm up the hangar, so I took the tanks and all of these parts home so that I could weld them in the smaller workspace there.




Hours
Logged: 1.5

Today I spent an additional 1.5 hours on the wingtip, but the more exciting news is that an order came in from Wicks.

Seat Foam

Seat Foam and Invisible Cat

I ordered some 5052 Aluminum to make fuel lines out of, along with some foam for the seats. My plan for the seats is to use tempur foam for the bottom layer for its shock absorption, then to use regular seat foam for the rest. Wicks had the best price that I could find on a 1″ thick green cushion that was big enough for the seats.

Here our quality assurance department verifies the alloy of the aluminum fuel tubing by smell.

I also got some rivets for the doors. They are made of aluminum and have a nice large head to help spread the load evenly. I’m planning to use these AN fittings for the fuel quantity gauges. They have Flared ends on both sides, and one side has a bulkhead attachment. My plan (for now at least) is to set up the fuel quantity sight gauges outboard of the fuselage frame, on the inboard side of the root rib. This will eliminate the need for any flexible tubing.

Rivets and AN Fittings

The Wicks price was pretty good on aluminum pull rivets for the door and window skins. The 90 degree AN fitting is for the fuel quantity gauge.

I didn’t want to use tempur foam for the entire seat cushions for a couple of reasons. Cost and weight were two factors, since the tempur foam had more of each. Another reason was the recommendation of a professional interior guy that gave a presentation about how to build seats. Another Bearhawk builder named Dave Lenart recommended Rochford Supply for the foam. The higher density option is 4526, with the softer 3319. The 1″ thick harder stuff goes over the tempur foam, then the softer 2″ thick stuff goes on top of that. The seat back is 2″ 3319 by itself.

Seat Foam

The seat foam cushions came from Rochford Supply

Cinnamon Roll

Foam Cinnamon Roll




Hours
Logged: 3.5

Today I added more of the strip material that will hold on the flush mounted wing tip. It goes much faster in the straight stretches because I don’t have to cut relief holes for as many flutes. I put the aileron back on so that I could make sure that the gap was even and straight. I’m using .032 aluminum, which is specified in the Bear tracks for this use.

Wingtip Strip

This is the strip to allow for the wingtip flush mount on the tip rib.